![SoftPro™ Chlorine+ Carbon Whole House Water Filter to Remove PFAS, Chlorine, Chloramine & Pesticides [City Water Filters Series]](http://www.softprowatersystems.com/cdn/shop/files/SoftPro_Whole_House_Carbon_Filter_with_Spin_Down_Water_Filter.webp?v=1783547361&width=300)
Well Water Filtration Systems
Well water filtration systems treat the problems a softener can't: iron stains, rotten-egg smell, acidic water, sand and bacteria. Start with a water test, then build the system in order: sediment, iron, pH, softener, carbon, UV. Each SoftPro system treats the whole house at the point of entry, and systems ship free.
SoftPro™ AIO Iron Master - Best Iron Filter for Well Water (Air Injected Water Filter / Katalox)
Sale price From $1,517.00Regular priceSHOP NOW$2,036.50SoftPro™ Catalytic Whole House Carbon Filter for Well Water (Best Seller + Lifetime Warranty)
Sale price From $1,310.00Regular priceSHOP NOW$1,453.75SoftPro™ pH Neutralizer Calcite Filter for Neutralizing Acidic Water [WELL WATER]
Sale price From $1,799.00Regular priceSHOP NOW$2,386.50SoftPro™ Spin-Down Sediment Filter & Sand Separator for Well Water
Sale price From $95.00Regular priceSHOP NOW$99.50Pura UV-20 Filter, 3-Stage, Ultraviolet Light System w/ Sediment Filter
Sale price $839.00Regular priceSHOP NOW$1,259.00
Well water buying guide
Well water filtration systems work best as a sequence built from your water test, starting with the SoftPro Spin-Down Sediment Filter and SoftPro AIO Iron Master and finishing with the Pura UV-20 for bacteria.
Key takeaways
- Nearly 40 million people in the US rely on a private well (USGS), and the EPA puts testing on the owner.
- Test first: hardness, iron, manganese, pH, hydrogen sulfide, total dissolved solids and bacteria.
- Install in order: sediment, iron, pH, softener, carbon, then UV last.
- No single media does everything. Most wells need two or three stages.
- Hard water and scale need a well water softener, not a filter.
Why do private wells need their own filtration system?
Private wells need their own filtration because no utility treats or tests the water for you. City water is disinfected and monitored before it reaches the tap; a well delivers whatever is in the ground. USGS estimates nearly 40 million people in the US rely on a domestic well.
The EPA's private well guidance puts testing on the homeowner and recommends checking total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH every year. That annual test is what tells you which well water filtration system you actually need.
Sources: USGS domestic well estimate; EPA private well testing guidance; EPA secondary drinking water standards, 40 CFR 143.3.
How to Choose a Whole House Water Filter for Well Water
Test your well water first
Every well is different, so the right system starts with numbers, not guesses. Test for hardness, iron, manganese, pH, hydrogen sulfide (the rotten-egg smell), total dissolved solids and bacteria. Our Well Water Test Kit covers the basics; for bacteria, use a state-certified lab. Bring the results to us and we'll tell you which stages you need, and which you don't. Skipping the test is the most common reason people buy the wrong filter, or buy twice.
Put each stage in the right order
Order matters on a well. Sediment comes first, so sand doesn't damage anything downstream. Next comes the iron filter, then the pH neutralizer if your water is acidic. The softener follows, then carbon for taste and odor, and UV last, so it sees the cleanest water. One note: a calcite neutralizer adds a little hardness as it raises pH, so size your softener after the neutralizer, not before. Our team sizes the full train for you, free.
Match the filter to the problem
Orange or brown stains and a metallic taste point to iron: the AIO Iron Master. Blue-green stains on fixtures point to acidic water: the pH Neutralizer. Sand or grit in aerators: the Spin-Down Sediment Filter. Bad taste, odor or chemicals: the Catalytic Carbon Filter. Bacteria in a lab test: the Pura UV-20. A rotten-egg smell can have more than one fix depending on how strong it is, so send us your test result before you choose. Hard water and scale need a well water softener, not a filter.
Who this collection isn't for
If you're on city water, these systems are the wrong fit: city water is already disinfected and treated, and you need chlorine and chloramine removal instead. See Whole House Water Filters for City Water. If hardness is your only problem, a softener on its own is enough.
Which well water filter fixes which problem?
Each stage in a well water filtration system treats one problem, so match what you see to the stage that fixes it. If iron is your main issue, compare stages in Iron Filters for Well Water, and see why private wells usually need both an iron filter and a softener.
| What you see | Likely problem | SoftPro stage |
|---|---|---|
| Sand or grit in aerators | Sediment | Spin-Down Sediment Filter (first stage) |
| Orange or brown stains, metallic taste | Iron | AIO Iron Master (chemical-free air injection) |
| Blue-green stains on fixtures | Acidic water | pH Neutralizer Calcite Filter |
| Scale on fixtures and appliances | Hardness | Well water softener |
| Bad taste, odor or chemicals | Odors, tastes, VOCs | Catalytic Carbon Filter |
| Rotten-egg smell | Hydrogen sulfide | Depends on strength: send us your test result |
| Bacteria in a lab test | Bacteria and viruses | Pura UV-20 (last stage) |
What do the EPA numbers on a well water test mean?
The EPA numbers on your well water test are secondary standards: guideline levels for taste, odor, staining and corrosion rather than health limits. Results above them are the usual reason a well needs filtration. The figures below come from 40 CFR 143.3.
| Test result | EPA secondary standard | Where to start |
|---|---|---|
| Iron | 0.3 mg/L | Send us your result |
| pH | 6.5–8.5 | Below 6.5: pH Neutralizer |
| Manganese | 0.05 mg/L | Send us your result |
| Total dissolved solids | 500 mg/L | Send us your result |
Bacteria are a separate question: the Wisconsin DNR, like the EPA, advises testing for bacteria once a year and again whenever taste, color or smell changes. A positive result is when the Pura UV-20 belongs at the end of the system.
How this guide was put together: the stage order and product matches follow how SoftPro's team sizes well water systems, and every water-quality number comes from the EPA, USGS and state sources linked above. Product removal limits aren't listed here; check each product page for specs, or send us your test result.
What do well owners ask about well water filtration systems?
Do I need a water softener and a filter for well water?
Often, yes. They solve different problems. A softener removes hardness (scale); filters remove iron, sulfur, acidity, sediment, chemicals and bacteria. Your water test tells you which ones you need.
What order should well water filters go in?
Sediment filter, then iron filter, then pH neutralizer (if needed), then softener, then carbon, then UV last.
Can one filter remove iron, sulfur and bacteria?
No single media does everything. Iron filters don't disinfect, and UV doesn't remove iron. Most wells need two or three stages.
Do I need to test my water first?
Yes. Testing is cheaper than buying the wrong system. Use our well water test kit, or a state-certified lab for bacteria.
Do these filters work for the whole house?
Yes. They install at the point of entry, so every tap, shower and appliance gets treated water.
How often should I test my well water?
Once a year for bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH, as the EPA recommends, and again whenever the taste, color or smell changes.
What causes a rotten-egg smell in well water?
Hydrogen sulfide. It can have more than one fix depending on how strong it is, so send us your water test result before you choose a filter.
